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Glossary

Appliance repair terms, explained plainly

When your technician mentions a part by name, this is what they mean.

C E D S H T I F M O V
Compressor
The pump at the heart of a refrigerator or freezer's cooling system. It circulates refrigerant through the coils; when it fails, the unit runs but stops getting cold.
Condenser Coil
The coil (usually at the back or bottom of a refrigerator) that releases heat pulled from inside the unit. Dust buildup here is a common cause of poor cooling.
Evaporator Fan
The fan that circulates cold air from the evaporator coil throughout the refrigerator and freezer compartments. A failed one often causes the freezer to stay cold while the fridge warms up.
Defrost Drain
The channel that carries melted frost water out of the freezer during the automatic defrost cycle. When it clogs or freezes, water pools under the crisper drawers.
Sealed System
The compressor, condenser, evaporator, and refrigerant lines together — a closed loop that requires specialized (EPA-certified) work to service, unlike most other appliance repairs.
Drain Pump
The pump in a washer or dishwasher that pushes used water out through the drain hose at the end of a cycle. A clogged or failed drain pump is the most common cause of standing water.
Suspension Rods / Shocks
The components that stabilize a washer's drum during the spin cycle. Worn ones cause loud banging or excessive vibration.
Door Lock / Interlock
The switch assembly that confirms a washer, dryer, dishwasher, or microwave door is closed before allowing it to run — a common reason an appliance "won't start."
Heating Element
The coil that produces heat in a dryer, oven, or (indirectly) a dishwasher's dry cycle. A burned-out element is the most common cause of "runs but doesn't heat."
Thermal Fuse
A one-time safety fuse in a dryer that blows if internal temperature gets dangerously high — often triggered by a blocked vent restricting airflow.
Igniter
The component that lights the burner on a gas oven or range. A weak or dirty igniter is the most common reason a gas burner "clicks but won't light."
Thermostat / Temperature Sensor
The part that tells an oven or refrigerator how hot or cold it actually is. A drifting sensor causes food to burn or undercook at the "correct" set temperature.
Control Board
The electronic "brain" of a modern appliance that manages cycles, timing, and safety functions. Board failures often show up as an unresponsive display or an error code.
Float Switch
The safety switch in a dishwasher that shuts off the water inlet if the tub is too full, preventing overflow. A stuck float switch can stop a cycle from starting.
Spray Arm
The rotating arm inside a dishwasher that distributes water to clean dishes. A clogged or cracked spray arm is a common cause of dishes coming out dirty.
Magnetron
The component that generates microwave energy to heat food. When it fails, the microwave runs (light on, turntable spinning) but food stays cold.
Flywheel (Garbage Disposal)
The spinning plate inside a disposal that the impellers are mounted to. When it jams — usually on food debris — the motor hums but the flywheel won't turn.
OEM Part
"Original Equipment Manufacturer" — a replacement part made by (or authorized by) the appliance's original manufacturer, as opposed to a generic aftermarket part.
Diagnostic Fee
The flat charge for a technician to inspect and identify the cause of an appliance problem. It applies toward the repair cost if you approve the work.
Service Call
An in-home visit by a technician — covers travel, inspection, and diagnosis, distinct from the cost of parts and labor for the actual repair.
Short Cycling
When a compressor or motor turns on and off repeatedly in quick succession instead of running a normal cycle — usually a sign of an electrical or refrigerant-pressure issue.
Door Gasket / Seal
The rubber seal around a refrigerator, oven, or washer door that keeps temperature or water contained. A worn gasket lets cold air (or water) escape.
Vent Restriction
A partial or full blockage in a dryer's exhaust duct, usually lint buildup — the leading cause of long dry times and a recognized fire-safety hazard.

Not sure which part is failing?

That's what the diagnostic visit is for — call and describe the symptom, we'll take it from there.

Call (832) 570-6555